Walking the Cliffs

Away From It All

Friday I took the bustling train to Dover. I wanted to have some time alone to reflect on my experience living in England. I will be coming home in only two weeks! How have I grown since I first got on a plane in Minneapolis taking the step to live in a new country? In what areas do I want to continue to grow? How can I improve myself? Just two days away from it all to reflect on these questions. And why not go to one of the most spectacular coasts in the world? The White Cliffs of Dover.

When I got to Dover, the first thing I did was head to the harbor. I walked along the harbor and eventually ended up at the pebble beach, where I had a peaceful lunch.

HAHA I love this sign. YES! Beware of aggressive seagulls! I've been attacked seagulls many a time.... not on this trip though, thank goodness....

I then decided to head up one of the hills to the Dover Castle.

I came to a little footpath just past this sign. A little steep, but not too bad. Wrong, wrong, WRONG! It was much steeper than I had anticipated. And then, at then end of this steep hill? Stairs!

So many steep stairs....

"Oh, gosh...."

Hey! Don't judge me until you see how high up we are at the top! The views were worth it though.... Reflection and calf workout all in one.

The entrance to the Dover Castle! The Castle is actually within a thick wall. I had to pass over this bridge to enter through the Castle wall.

Looking out over the bridge

Admiralty Look-Out: a look-out (just in case you didn't catch it in the title) within the castle grounds. It overlooks the English Channel (Strait of Dover/Admiralty Harbor). Used by this fancy gent, Admiral Ramsay, had a look-out within the white cliffs below the look-out that was used during the first and second World Wars. Here are some of the remarkable views from Admiralty Look-Out...

Unlike some of the other castles I've seen, Dover Castle has a lot of spacious land within its walls. The Castle itself has been actively used since the age of the Romans until WWII. I'll explain more later...

I had to get a picture of these stairs. Obviously built by men. Each stair was SO high! My girly little legs had a difficult time reaching each one! The guys who built these stairs were obviously quite tall blokes. This pic doesn't even do it justice. The stairs led to the edge of a steep hill that was walled at the top. It was used for blasting cannons and such...

Great view (from the top of those monstrous stairs). The long, brick building you see is the "new" officers' barracks (1850). It was made in an attempt to modernize the garrison accommodations.

Looking out towards Admiralty Look-Out (the little pier).

From here you can see the original castle (towards the right) and the Saxon church of St. Mary-in-Castro. See how much land was actually within the walled fortress?

Now for a little history about Dover Castle (it's actually quite interesting!). Did you know, that Dover Castle was known as the Key to England? Which makes sense because it overlooks the strait the lies between England and the mainland.

When the Romans invaded, they built a lighthouse on this land (which I'll show you in just a bit). The value of this location was evident even then!

After the time the Romans left England, William the Conquerer took hold of this land. He built a Norman castle and stayed here briefly. Although we know little of this castle now, William's stay in Dover played an important role in its history.

But! The action came in the 1250's when King Henry II built a castle here. Known as the "Great Tower", this castle still stands today (pretty neat inside!). I won't go through all of the details (as there are a lot), but the Great Tower went through battles and family wars. Despite, there was usually a residence here, whether it be soldiers, knights, or a place of ceremony. The castle grounds were used throughout Britain's battles. Over time, the fortress became more modernized to fit the changing needs of the military. Tunnels were carved into the white cliffs, below the castle grounds, to serve as military storage and headquarters.

In the World Wars, these tunnels were expanded and held an underground hospital, communication center, naval headquarters, and housing shelter. Winston Churchill even visited these tunnels to plan with Admiral Ramsay during the War. The tunnels are now known as the "Secret Wartime Tunnels." I got the opportunity to walk through the Secret Wartime Tunnels hidden within the white cliffs. Unfortunately, I couldn't take any pictures. It was a fascinating experience though! It's amazing how Dover Castle has transformed itself to fit the changing needs or the military since its start in the Roman era!

From the Great Tower, looking down to St. Mary-in-Castro and the Roman lighthouse.

The Roman lighthouse. Only four levels remain now...

After a day of walking, I headed back to the B&B for a peaceful evening of reflection. It was wonderful. I got to do some writing and relaxing. I woke up early the next morning to get some homemade breakfast. Now, I just have to clue you in to what a traditional breakfast consists of in Enland: baked beans, eggs, sausage, bacon, fried tomato and mushrooms, toast, coffee, juice. Ufda! You wouldn't think that baked beans and eggs go together for breakfast, but it's amazingly delicious.... If I ever make breakfast for you and your plate has the above ingredients, don't be alarmed. Just give it a go! It's tasty!

In the cool of the morning, I headed to the beach. The sun was shining and already it was warming up the earth. Promise of a beautiful day! Perfect day for hiking.

That's a dog playing fetch at the beach already in the morning. He's obviously already had his coffee....mine hadn't entirely kicked in yet.... :P

hehehe I love this picture... being ridiculous and that dog in the background... too funny!

I love English beaches!

I had to walk past some of the cliffs to get to the footpath for hiking on top of them. Look in the middle of the cliff....what do you see? Think back to Dover Castle history... It's a portion of the Secret Wartime Tunnels! Remember, those military tunnels were carved into the soft rock of the white cliffs.

Can you see any more look-outs? :)

Cute little houses nestled beside the cliffs. Literally, their backyards ARE the cliffs.

Finally, some white cliff footpaths!

Ummm...ya, I have no explanation for these.... :P

The dramatic coast line just speaks for itself. It was everything you'd expect it to be and more. The hike was incredibly relaxing and it stretched forever. Seagulls screamed and the waves could be heard crashing below. The air was so fresh and cleansing. The sun warmed up my skin and a slight breeze breathed reviving air upon me.

The cliffs jagged along the coast, but the footpaths gave such a wonderful variety. Down into valleys, through thick brush, past fragrant flowers, but always with the coast in view.

The Harbor with ferries leaving for France. It was extra busy this weekend because it is the only way to travel to the mainland due to the volcanic ash in the air.

Looking back towards Dover and the Harbor. If you look really closely (towards the right, you can see Dover Castle). I hadn't realized I had come so far walking until I really looked at this picture. Total I put in over 8 miles hiking on this day alone.

Horses grazing at the edge of the cliff.

Tablet Map

Breath-taking scenery

South Foreland Lighthouse next to a fertile crop field awaiting to be planted.

Majestic and serene, the White Cliffs of Dover provided the escape I needed to reflect. It was dramatic, stunning landscapes that seem somewhat out of reach in books. To be able to walk the cliffs (inside and out) and stimulate my senses with their spectacular wonder in person was such an incredible blessing. :)